Del Mar

Chef Robert Hohmann leaves his culinary mark at 1500 Ocean as he moves to Los Angeles to work with The Next Idea and Sogno Toscano. Together the companies intend to consult, impact and contribute globally to the areas of food, beverage and hospitality concepts.

Chef Matt Gordon expands his Solace Restaurant collection with Sea & Smoke in Del Mar’s redone Flower Hill Mall. Some of my favorites: the West Coast open-face omelette with house cured salmon and dill creme fraiche ($11.5), sides ($6 each) of skillet cornbread, house-cut Kennebec fries and sweet and sour heirloom carrots, small and served whole, perfect finger food. If I lived closer I’d be there daily just to relax on the quiet large back patio, or at the lively bar. The front of the restaurant decor gives credence to the American brasserie style menu that Gordon created. It’s a comfortable restaurant with food you can relate to no matter what the time of day. If you’re in the area, know that happy hour runs seven days a week from 3 to 6pm. 2690 Via de la Valle, Open daily from 7:30 am, 858-925-8212. Note that I know Chef, and for the record, he does not comp even his friends. Thankfully.

Recently sighted, ex San Diego chef Jason Shaeffer (original Laurel Restaurant & Bar, and 1500 Ocean) who moved to Windsor, CO and opened Chimney Park Restaurant & Bar. Should you find yourself in Fort Collins, Windsor is a few miles away and worth the short drive for an evening of Shaeffer’s award-winning food.

In Kensington, a “uber fun, cool and eclectic” new wine bar , Village Vino, opens (softly) June 28 at the corner of Adams Avenue and Kensington Drive in the same block as the Ken Theater and Kensington Grill. Owner Rita Pirkl will feature wines from around the world from small producers, many family run. There will be classes too. Buzz has seen the space and it offers all of the fun and none of the pretense of so many other wine bars in this town (no sofas either!). 4095 Adams Ave., 619-546-8466, open Sunday to Thursday 11am to 10pm, Friday and Saturday until midnight, closed Monday.

If you’re looking for a restaurant to buy, here are two you might be interested in: Avenue 5 Restaurant and Bar in Bankers Hill is on the block as is City Deli in Hillcrest. For additional information, 858-792-5521.

More Malarkey for his minions: The empire spreads to Scottsdale with a second Searsucker for those hungry “zonies; waived c orkage Tuesdays and half off selected bottles at all five venues; and happy hour arrives at Burlap from 4 to 6pm. Growing pains at the three-month-old Gabardine where chef Chad White is out and Malarkey is in with a pared down menu (unfortunately not yet posted online) and appetizers that include mac n’ cheese, shishito peppers and fries (they were sides before). Is Malarkey trying too hard here with a new brunch hook at Gabardine? Disco? Kind of odd for this old Point Loma neighborhood.

Herringbone just opened in La Jolla, making it the fifth in the fabric named restaurants. If you love noisy, be-there-be-seen places, you’ll be right at home here as you watch nimble wait staff juggle food and drinks around a packed bar and 100-year-old olive trees planted inside the huge ex-warehouse space. Expect a pricey dinner meal with most mains in the high $20’s and starters in the high teens.

And a final thought on Malarkey: Is the expansion too fast and furious given his turnover of chefs (Burlap and Gabardine)? Gabardine certainly needed more thought when it opened (and still may) as the elements of decor, dark corners at the bar, noise and a mish mash of a menu were not cohesive for the four times I visited. (The place is a mile from my home.) Time will tell if he can get the locals hooked.

As the New Year approaches, it’s time to remember a few of the stories that got Buzz’s attention in 2011:

1. The unexpected death of Naomi Wise, San Diego’s only truly anonymous food critic. She wrote for the San Diego Reader and was scrupulous to keep her identity hidden. I was an occasional member of her eating posse as she sometimes referred to her dining companions. Back in 2007 a post appeared here and Naomi wrote a perfect comment about what she did to be the critical and (sometimes unpopular) restaurant reviewer in the county. While San Diego does have writers and bloggers extolling the latest dish about a place, none are completely anonymous–ask any of the PR agencies that host media dinners. These days, everyone thinks they know food, just look at Twitter, Facebook, Yelp and other social media. Naomi’s honest, food knowledgeable voice will be missed.

2. National TV beckoned Nine-Ten‘s chef Jason Knibb who took on Bobby Flay in an Iron Chef America challenge. Knibb lost but had a good time with the “all business” Flay who barely bothered to speak to Knibb after the show. Riviera Magazine lost food writer and editor Troy Johnson to San Diego Magazine. Along the way he had time to create and star in Crave, a new show for the Food Network. Bernard Guillas, executive chef extraordinaire at The Marine Room appeared twice on the Today Showand also was inducted into the Maitre Cuisiniers de France, a very high honor.

3. Brian Malarkey who brought us Searsucker continues on a material tear, opening places all over the county, all named for fabrics that include Burlap and for 2012, Herringbone, Gingham, and Gabardine. Interesting concept and Buzz wonders if he didn’t get the idea from Washington DC chef/owner Tom Power who, a few years ago, named his first restaurant Corduroy. His second, Herringbone opens in 2012. Malarkey picked up the shuttered La Playa Bistro and plans for it to become Gabardine. It will be worth watching how Malarkey unbuttons this small space located on a corner at the end of Point Loma’s business area. For anyone other than area residents the restaurant’s location is nearly a dead-end destination. And what about the food? Will Malarkey’s name be enough to fill the spot? Someone remarked the restaurant could have had a more nautical name such as Canvas, to reflect the neighborhood’s well-known tenant-–the San Diego Yacht Club is just two blocks away.

4. Chefs making news: Amy DiBiase now oversees The Shores in La Jolla, working with executive chef Bernard Guillas; Paul McCabe left his executive chef duties at Del Mar’s Kitchen 1540 for a partnership with the owners of Rancho Santa Fe’s Delicias; Jason Maitland left Flavor del Mar and will open Red Light District in the old Sushi Itto in the Gaslamp while CIA schooled and highly credentialed Brian Redzikowski took Maitland’s spot. Chad White jetted to Sea Rocket Bistro in North Park. At the Hotel Del Coronado’s 1500 Ocean Brian Sinnott chose family over running the kitchen, Aaron Martinez is now in charge and wine director Joe Weaver just moved north. Jason Shaeffer opened 1500 Ocean in 2006, then moved to Windsor, Colorado, bought a restaurant, named it Chimney Park Restaurant and Bar and was just named one of OpenTable Diner’s Choice Overall Winners for 2011 (as was Addison at the Grand Del Mar). Carl Schroeder made it to the semi-finals for a James Beard Foundation Award in the Best Chef Pacific region (as was William Bradley of Addison in 2010), neither made the finals…

5. San Diegans like to drink. According to a survey in The Daily Beast , San Diego ranks 9th in drunkest cities…This may not be an honor the city needs.

Happy New Year…May 2012 bring San Diego’s chefs, restaurants and diners great food (and service, too). And perhaps this year will bring a James Beard Foundation award to a deserving chef and restaurant. It’s last minute, but you can put in your own nominees for the awards here–just do it before December 31, 2011 at midnight.

UPDATE: More Buzz about the Roseville space:…We’re hearing The Waterfront (on Kettner) wants it–and a full liquor license–and will redo the restaurant with a different name, but same Waterfront concept.

Terra in Hillcrest will close and move to 7091 El Cajon Boulevard in a stand alone former Italian restaurant at 71st and El Cajon Boulevard. They will open the first week in April. In the meantime, you can enjoy a Valentine’s dinner at the current location, for just $59 plus tax and tip. Their final “hoorah” party as Rossman put it in his email blast will be March 18. 3900 Vermont St., San Diego, 619.293.7088.

Other places we’ve been wondering about: Mia Francesca’s in Little Italy, beset by construction issues, finally forging ahead again. Their website says they expect to open Little Italy in May and in August a second location in Del Mar Highlands Town Center. 1655 India Street, San Diego, 619-237-9606 and 12955 El Camino Real, G-4, San Diego.

Brazen BBQ Smokehouse & Bar has their liquor license application posted. We should soon be seeing some good barbecue at 441 Washington and Fifth Avenue in Hillcrest.

Finally, should anyone want to buy the restaurant as well as the real estate of Lamont Street Grill is for sale, complete with a type 47 liquor license and two rental units for $1,495,000. For more information: 858-764-4223.

We’re hearing the Point Loma former site of Roseville (closed in August, 2010), might become a fun casual sports bar concept. We say might since the landlords seems to be dragging their feet to get the place rented…or return phone calls from the potential lessee.

Surprise your Valentine with a special dinner in the dark at the US Grant Hotel. Experience a three-course dinner from February 11 to 14 presented by Opaque Dining. Your sense of taste, smell, touch and sound will be heightened as you eat in a totally dark dining room served by blind or visually impaired individuals trained to serve in the dark. The cost for the prix fixe dinner menu is $99 (+tax)/person. Drinks and tip are not included in the ticket price. Tickets for this event must be pre-purchased and are available online at www.darkdining.com.

If you’d rather stay in and have dinner delivered (no, not pizza), but a menu that is aphrodisiac centric, check out Dining Details. Just think, no worries about drinking and driving…you can toast your honey in the privacy of your own home.

Arterra finally has a new executive chef, Tony Miller who comes from the Ritz Carlton Kapalua, Latitude 41 in Columbus and Wailea Beach Marriott Resort. He kicks off his new menu (and redone dining room) on February 17^th from 5:30pm to 8pm with Taste of Arterra where you can sample signature dishes like lobster mac ‘n’ cheese, Moroccan braised beef short rib and avocado butter cake with almond crunch. The event is free with a $10 donation per guest to Feeding America San Diego’s Farm2Kids program. Advance reservations required at Opentable or directly at 858.369.6032.

Red Leight isn’t a district but is a cleverly named and bottled Rosé. The vineyards are in Malibu on 37 acres and they have been producing since 2006. Howard Leight created Red Leight which is under the Malibu Rocky Oaks Estate Vineyards label that produces award-winning Cabs along with a Syrah and Merlot. Buzz was lucky enough to taste the Rosé and Syrah along with San Diego’s top sommeliers, wine directors and distributors–and the wines are notable. You can purchase online at their website and soon (we hope) will have distribution here.

Just opened, Sessions Public, an odd name for a new contemporary place sandwiched next to the retro Catalina Bar at Voltaire and Catalina. The tavern style food is good and if the Cat Bar (as the locals refer to it) is too retro, the restaurant’s long skinny contemporary room features a full bar to go with the eclectic yet approachable food. There’s a mystery consulting chef who created the menu that includes an additive bowl of tender crispy chicken oysters ($9), duck confit with an Asian flair of udon noodles ($17), Nueske bacon tempura lollipops ($8), short rib sliders ($11) and lobster-scallop cioppino ($20). Happily, most of the menu is $15 and under. Four of us feasted well though we weren’t impressed with the miniscule serving of Serrano ham and artisan bread ($6).

Buzz wonders if the mysterious consulting chef at Sessions Public could be Jason Maitland who had been at Arterra for ages…until the axe fell on him and others of the dining management team. Maitland, is teaming up with Jerome Astolfi who just left the front of the house at Market Restaurant + Bar in Del Mar to become the general manager at Flavor. They will open late summer in the old Epazote Steakhouse in Del Mar Plaza.

Bankers Hill Bar + Restaurant opened this week. It’s Carl Schroeder’s (Market) uptown place with a tavern menu of comfort foods including what seems to be the hottest new dish for restaurants—the deviled egg. Haven’t seen the actual menu (only the cleverly designed one on the website) but am excited to try it soon. Fourth and Ivy in the old Modus space. Open from 4:30pm, 619-231-0222.

PrepKitchen goes to Del Mar in the old Giorgio’s Osteria del Pescatore (their lease was up) on the corner of Camino del Mar and 12^th. How lucky for the people living in the area. Buzz loves much of the PrepKitchen menu from La Jolla, including a wicked brownie with a bit of caramel and sea salt topping…And the food at their mainstay WhisknLadle represents good use of local ingredients— simple preparations of top-notch ingredients. There’s a happy hour at the bar where a pal and I noshed our way through the daily tapas. Expect the same quality in Del Mar.

And the chef that Blanca brought from New York, decided to return to that city after just nine months attempting to open the eyes of the eating public with interesting food. Chef Jason Neroni couldn’t get the diners to appreciate chicken that doesn’t have grill marks. San Diego struggles on to be recognized as a food city.

A few days ago we heard there was a wholesale dismissal of the restaurant team at Del Mar’s Arterra Restaurant that included executive chef Jason Maitland and others in management. It seems that the powers that be have long wanted to re-concept the restaurant. It’s unclear what that concept will be and who will be at the helm, but their website does say (under Jobs at the bottom of the site) that the hotel is looking for people to be “part of an exciting team while learning and using your culinary skills.” Good luck.

It is that time of the year…holiday madness begins with Thanksgiving. Here are a few ideas for the day that include places that will happily feed you and the family. Also included are places to get turkeys, should you decide to cook at home.

If you’re interested in a Heritage turkey (it looks and tastes a bit different than our usual big breasted beauties), check out and try one from Heritage Foods. They have other meats and food items that would satisfy any home cook. Buzz regularly orders turkey from them and Good Shepherd Turkey Ranch.

Not interested in messing up the kitchen? Then, take the family out to eat at one of the myriad of choices San Diego offers…here are just a few:

Arterra will offer a plated three-course dinner for $39 while Red Marlin (with a gorgeous bay view) let you choose from a buffet for $42. Truluck’s, Paon and many others will serve dinners also.

For something healthy and the diet restricted, check out Healthy Creations in Encinitas. They offer meals to go as well as a gluten-free baking class on November 19. Haven’t had a chance to take a look, but sounds very good.

We’re hearing there’s a soon-to-open modern French restaurant somewhere downtown. Could it be an outpost for the well-regarded one in Santa Luz ? Chefs are auditioning and one name that we’ve heard about is Aaron Martinez (who was at Addison, then flew to and quickly took flight from Flight).

UPDATE: The new name for this place will be PAON which means peacock in French...and due to open sometime in August. Word travels fast these days and Per Se Restaurant & Wine Bar Carlsbad could have a name problem on their hands. As noted in a previous post, Thomas Keller got the name first with his well-known eatery Per Se in New York. Apparently Mr. Keller has voiced displeasure with the Carlsbad wannabe. We’ll see if there is a name change in the works.

It's Got Bite

The Good, The Bad & The Ugly
About San Diego's Food Scene

Chefs Hohmann, Gordon and Shaeffer

Village Vino, Avenue 5, City Deli and More Malarkey

San Diego’s Notable Food Stories in 2011

Terra, MiaFrancesca’s, Brazen BBQ, and Roseville Updates

Opaque Dining, Dining Details and Arterra

Bits and Bites: Red Leight, Sessions Public and Flavor

Bits and Bites: Bankers Hill,Del Mar and Solana Beach

Buzz from the Bar: Arterra Restaurant Shakeup

Bits and Bites: Gobble Gobble

Buzz from the Bar: Modern French UPDATE

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