Restaurants

San Diego’s Restaurant Week runs for two weeks in September and January–two generally slow months for restaurants. Much is made of the event that began in 2004, sponsored by the San Diego County Chapter of the California Restaurant Association (SDCCRA) that organizes and provides the press for the restaurants that serve a prix fixe two-course lunch for $10, $15 or $20 or a three-course dinner for $20, $30 or $40, all depending on the restaurant. More than 200 restaurants took part in week one (just ending today, September 21), and week two runs from September 23 until the 28th with more than 150 dining choices.

The idea of restaurant week began in 1992 when the late restaurateur Joe Baum and (yes, that Zagat) thought it would be a gesture of good will to the 15000 reporters in New York who were there to cover the Democratic convention. It was a four day affair–now counted in months rather than days–that grew to cities and towns around the country, many coordinated by , restaurant associations or local community organizations. The various reasons for such events include: increase tourist traffic, help restaurants through slow months and allow diners to try places they may have heard about and want to try and hopefully return for another meal.

In San Diego, as in some other places, it’s “pay to play” for the restaurants. First, to participate a restaurant must be a member in good standing of the SDCCRA. The approximate membership price for a 50-seat restaurant with mid-range prices is $590, based on annual revenue. As a member there is a registration cost for the restaurant’s inclusion for press and other publicity that ranges from $400 to $1000. Those early bird prices depend on whether a restaurant serves lunch, dinner or both, and wants to participate in one or two months. The Association also presents those Gold Medallion awards we hear about in May after their annual dinner. And you can’t get a medallion if you’re not a member, so how important is the award when it’s insiders voting yearly for the same restaurants? (Buzz wrote about this a few years back).

Second, while that special menu for dinner or lunch may be $10, $30 or $40, etc., remember that price does NOT include gratuity, tax or beverage. Thus you may end up with bill closer to $20, $40 or $50 (or more). Is it a bargain? You can decide. Is it a hassle? Perhaps. Is the food as good during this special week? Maybe, or maybe not, because the restaurant tends to be full, service may suffer, and so could the food. Jan Borkum (“proud mom” of Tracy Borkum) at the SDCCRA said they have stressed to restaurants to put their best food and service forward after complaints in earlier years of skimpy portions and lousy service. And based on the experience of one meal during a busy week, does that bring repeat business to the restaurant as many restaurateurs expect?

Third, note that many restaurants choose not to be an Association member, so they don’t participate. In North Park, such places as Urban Solace‘s chef/owner Matt Gordon prides himself on serving terrific food all the time and years ago knew that joining the lobby group (the primary function of the California Restaurant Association), was not for him. Jayne’s Gastropub and Finch’s Bistro and Wine Bar in La Jolla aren’t members either. Instead, Gordon and many other restaurants around town serve their regular menus or their own their versions of a prix fixe menu during the week. Many times you may spend less and eat well, with good service at the non-member places.

Farmhouse Cafe however, decided this year to join the Association for the benefits and help it gives small business owners especially when it comes to understanding the constantly changing laws, rules and regulations affecting the industry. They, along with many other participants, have the prix fixe special menu along with their regular menu during the two weeks.

A final observation: San Diego’s restaurants depend on the support of us, the diners, whether we’re eating a fish taco or a filet mignon, during restaurant week or not. Buzz wants to know your experiences during this restaurant week–whether a diner or a restaurateur. Diners: Did you try a new place? If so, would you return? Restaurateurs: Was the week successful for you, staff and do you expect to see new faces once the hoopla dies down? Oh, Yelpers take note: Please don’t ding a restaurant you’re trying for the first time during restaurant week…it’s just not nice.

GABARDINE UPDATE: As of June 14, Brian Malarkey’s Point Loma restaurant: Chef Chad White and Malarkey have parted ways. Malarkey will be at in the kitchen–perhaps to stay closer to home when he moves here this summer? (See post below and his email note to Gabardine patrons.)

Buzz took a hiatus from writing to host a gaggle of overseas friends passing through San Diego. Now it’s time to get things revved up with my recent observations while dining in San Diego’s eclectic restaurants.

A few weeks ago at The Shores I dined with a Parisian couple that I had only met that day (friends of friends) and we ordered a “half bottle” of Domaine Carneros sparkling wine ($31, glass $15). (Note the online menu still shows NV J. Brut Cuvee 20, Sonoma, CA). What a surprise when the Carneros arrived in a carafe, poured into glasses at the table by our server. Yep, a carafe, not a special carafe, just a regular wine carafe. We were stunned–everyone too polite to say a word.

To be fair, you’ll find these words on the wine list: “*Our HALF BOTTLES are better than a half bottle!! It is 2-1/2 glasses per carafe! Perfect if you want more than a glass and less than a bottle.” But usually carafes are for red and white wines. One doesn’t expect bubbles in a carafe, especially in a place where the sommelier is studying to become a master sommelier.

My curiosity got the best of me to learn more about serving bubbles in a carafe. I checked with Parisian friends who pour (and drink) Champagne nearly daily–they were not familiar with such service–and online I found a video showing Michel Drappier decanting his vintage Champagne into his specially made chilled decanter. Charles Heidsieck also weighs in on the subject, noting that Riedel makes a uniquely designed decanter for vintage Champagne.

For The Shores “offering the best in neighborhood American cuisine” with unobstructed ocean views (including kayakers, surfers and marine life) carafe service for sparkling wine “half bottle” is an affectation that doesn’t do justice to the customer, the restaurant or the bubbles. How about selling real half bottles of good California NV sparkling wine (prices range from $20 to $35) rather than make the customer wonder how long a bottle had been open before it reached the carafe (and possibly lost its effervesce along the way). I’d bet a lot of locals and travelers from distant lands would rave about the classy and comfortable dining experience.

Two more Malarkey venues opened (Gabardine and Herringbone), adding swatches to his growing love affair with fabric named restaurants (Searsucker, Burlap and Gingham). One can only wonder when he gets to Nylon, Velcro, Polyester and Spandex. He’s opening a new place in Uganda in the summer…yes, Uganda, as noted here. When will Malarkey have time to move to Point Loma as he mentions in a Gabardine that also includes menu changes. Buzz will delve more into Gabardine and Herringbone in a separate post…there’s lots to tell.

Full disclosure: I know the executive chef, chef de cuisine and sommelier at The Shores.

If you’ve yearned to try a new restaurant, or one that’s been around and now has a new chef, check out San Diego Restaurant Week, September 18 to 23. This season, many restaurants offer $10, $15 or $20 lunches along with dinners for $20, $30 or $40. Places where a new chef is in place: 1500 Ocean (Aaron Martinez) and The Shores (Amy DiBiase). Some lunch spots include Bali Hai , Bertrand at Mr. A’s and Flavor Del Mar.

Point Loma loses La Playa Bistro and the cafe it recently opened next door. They closed their doors September 8, due to the economy (as noted on a letter posted on their doors).

We’re hearing that the Gaslamp’s Dussini’s Mediterranean Bistro will convert the downstairs restaurant back to The Old Spaghetti Factory. Downstairs will close for remodeling February 1 and will reopen for dinner only. Upstairs will continue to be the Dussini lounge and bar with a smaller tapas menu.

The Better Half, one the successful new restaurants of 2008 will see staff changes with the departure of its creator, Zubin Desai who sold the business to his executive chef, John Robert Kennedy. Desai plans to relocate to the Bay area in the next few months.

Tommy Pastrami is coming to San Diego. First location will be downtown with some of the best deli corned beef, pastrami, tuna and chopped liver sandwiches you will ever find in this town. Last May Buzz mentioned them here.

Bankers Hill: Fifth Avenue must be a magnet for sushi. The area already has two sushi restaurants: Azuki Sushi Lounge and Mukashi within a few blocks of each other. Now a third, Hane Sushi & Bar on Fifth Avenue at Olive arrives in the same block as Mukashi. For the non-sushi palate, Avenue 5 Restaurant & Bar sits between the two. Buzz hasn’t yet tried Hane or Azuki.

Gaslamp: The Gaslamp’s latest addition is Opera Caffe for Italian with a Tuscan twist from owner Roberto Bernadoni who had restaurants in Florence before he came to be the chef at La Strada for past 16 years. EXY Restaurant & Lounge downtown is closed for remodeling.

Stu Milner, formerly the bar manager extraordinaire at Paradise Point’s Baleen took his shaker and stirrer to The Royal Hawaiian’s upscale restaurant, Azure, on Waikiki. The recently reopened Starwood property also houses the famous Mai Tai Bar that a friend mentioned is the first place she visits every time she arrives in Oahu.

New: Beer lovers rejoice: A pizza and brewery is set to open at 34^th and Adams in Normal Heights called Blind Lady Craft Pizza and Beer and is a venture of Lee Chase and three partners. Chase started Stone Brewery and worked there for nine plus years.For pasta and pizzas, Pastalini a casual pasta bar is open on Miramar Road.

San Diego’s Restaurant Week starts Sunday, January 11 and runs until the 16th with more than 150 venues serving three-course prix-fixe dinners at $20, $30 and $40; check the website for menus and prices. If you’ve been wondering about a particular place and just haven’t made there, this is the time to try something new.

Should you find yourself traveling to New York City soon, their restaurant week runs from January 18th to the 23rd and then again from the 25th to the 30th with more than 250 possible choices. New York is the place the idea started back in 1992 and restaurants serve lunch for $24.07 and dinners are all $35 for three-course prix-fixe meals.

For political and foodie junkies, the bipartisan Senate committee that plans the inaugural luncheon after the president is sworn in, will be eating a seafood stew, pheasant and duck and apple cinnamon sponge cake washed down with California wines from Duckhorn, Goldeneye and Korbel. Here’s the menu with recipes in case you decide to have a party. And for the historical side of things, check out the 2001 Inaugural Luncheon.

If you’re still wondering what to do New Year’s Eve, here are some suggestions: Support your favorite neighborhood restaurants where you may be able to sit at the bar if they’re already booked for dinner, or think about early drinks and then home with friends–you cook or get food to-go. It’s a good way to stay close to home, enjoy the evening and support the restaurants. Party–even in these woeful economic times–and everyone wins.

The possibilities are numerous for celebrating with many venues offering early and late seating and prix-fixe dinners of three plus courses at reasonable prices. So rather than list every place that sent Buzz a release (and many who didn’t post anything on their websites or send an email), here are some of my top picks.

Downtown/Gaslamp/Little Italy: Crescent Heights Kitchen & Lounge, Quarter Kitchen, Tabule, Bacchus Wine Market (3 to 6pm tasting), Anthology and Enoteca Style for cheese, chocolate and Champagne.

Coronado: The Hotel Del celebrates the 50th anniversary of the movie Some Like It Hot, Eno and 1500 Ocean also at the hotel, Candelas (Ferry Landing and Gaslamp).

East County: Barona Valley Ranch Resort & Casino, Frida Mexican Restaurant and many other local area restaurants.

North Park: Urban Solace, Sea Rocket Bistro, Alexander’s on 30th and The Linkery, not to mention the newest wine bar Splash. At the opposite end of 30th is Jaynes Gastropub and around the corner on Adams, the wildly popular Farm House Cafe.

Point Loma/Liberty Station: The Pearl Hotel, Roseville, Solare Ristorante , Tender Greens (perfect also for a party at home as you can order online for take-away), The 3rd Corner (also in Encinitas) Pomodoro in the old Luna Notte spot, no website: Phone: (619) 523-1301) and Mellow A Wine Bar.

Hillcrest/Bankers Hill: The Better Half, Modus, Wine Vault & Bistro, Avenue 5 Restaurant & Bar, Hexagone,(no website, 619-236-0467), Laurel Restaurant & Ba and Bertrand at Mr. A’s,

La Jolla/Del Mar: The Marine Room, Nine-Ten Prospect, Market Restaurant & Bar, and The Grand Del Mar

More holiday cheer:

The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe celebrates its history with a new 200 page cookbook that features the culinary talent of executive chef John Beriker. Written by Ranch & Coast’s Food Editor, Maria Desiderata Montana, the book includes many of the Inn’s famous dishes, all with photos to whet your appetite. Sounds like a perfect gift and it can be ordered online from the Inn starting December 18, for $29.95. For more information: 858-756-1131.

Ring in the New Year with dinner at Cafe Chloe. Two seatings: 6pm seating features five courses for $65 and the 9:30pm includes six courses and a Champagne toast for $85. Weekdays, they offer their Four, Five Six menu from 4pm to 6pm with appetizers and a small selection of wine and beer at $4, $5 and $6. 721 Ninth Avenue, 619-232-3242.

Over in North Park, Sea Rocket Bistro, has a three-course New Year’s Eve dinner for $25! Draft beers will be $3 and Champagne will be served at midnight. You’ll be able to see New Year’s celebrations around the world on their large screen tv. 3382 30th Avenue, 619-255-7049.

Wine Vault & Bistro brings in the New Year with two seatings: 4:15pm starts the Champagne reception for the 5pm seating ($65) and the later one begins at 8:30pm with the reception and dinner at 9pm ($95). For reservations and information: 619-295-3535.

Don’t forget if you have a favorite place, check with them to see what dining options they may have for the holidays.

Every once in a while it’s good to get out of San Diego to see what the rest of the world is eating. Recently, Buzz tripped up to the Monterey Peninsula.

In the Monterey/Pacific Grove area…great, fabulous coffee at Acme, in Seaside, two minutes north of Monterey. Owner Larry Thurman opened this tiny place four years ago in a garage with the motto “Resist Corporate Coffee”. Here you won’t find those over-the-top concoctions that mask the taste of good coffee. You will find small batches of beans from small growers, roasted in-house, ground to order and made into espresso–properly, as shots–or as regular coffee made in a simple contraption called a drip bar that allows for the coffee to made fresh in the cup–with the coffee of your choice. No stale canister coffee here. Thurman cleverly names his blends: Motor City Espresso, Valve Job Blend, Road Dog Blend, you get the picture. Try the natural Ethiopian as espresso, it’s rich, not burned and almost sweet but very satisfying. Barista Chris and Larry both know how to make very good coffee. Located just off Broadway on Contra Costa and Palm, Seaside, 831-393-9113, Monday-Friday 6:30am to 5pm, Saturday 7am to 3pm, closed Sunday.

Down in Pacific Grove, two minutes south of Monterey, you’ll find a walkable town with many historic Victorian homes and friendly people who acknowledge you with a smile or a good morning as you wander the streets to the ocean. At the corner of Lighthouse and 18th you”ll find Fournier’s Bakery Café. Owner/chef Kevin Fournier turns out featherlight focaccia for sandwiches and panini, not too sweet dense cocoa brownies, almond paste bear claws and lots more including custom wedding and specialty cakes. 650 Lighthouse Avenue, Pacific Grove, 831-655-1447. Open daily 8am to 5pm.

Just a few blocks away on Lighthouse, is Mélange, one of the very few places with small bar–if you don’t want to sit at a table. Open for dinner only, the small menu changes with the whim of chef/owner David Frappiea and the seasons. David describes his menu as world fusion (and I would add, without, thankfully any confusion). He resists overdoing flavors but isn’t afraid to tempt the palate with an offbeat take on a dish. Always great is the house-made fettuccine with wild mushrooms, simple and very flavorful with a mélange of seasonal ‘shrooms in a light butter sauce with tomato and fresh basil. A lovely shrimp risotto and even veal sweetbreads and braised rabbit starters appear on this small and well-priced (mostly mid $20’s) menu. A thoughtful and interesting wine list pairs with the food and David’s fiancée Dorothy has a terrific palate for wine/food pairings. For my taste, however, I prefer to have my reds not at room temp (usually 65 or 70 degrees), but slightly cooler, as if they came directly from the cellar, to enhance the wine’s flavors. Dinner only from 5:30pm to 10:00pm, Closed Sunday, 542 Lighthouse Ave., Pacific Grove, 831-333-0301.

A wonderful new restaurant named Roseville opened last week in the Point Loma community known as Roseville–one of the first areas settled by Louis Rose in the mid 1800’s. It’s the first restaurant for George Riffle, long known in this town from his stints managing the original Laurel Restaurant & Bar to opening Blanca in Solana Beach and Ivy Hotel in the Gaslamp.

He and his wife Wendy took the space next to the Point Loma-Shelter Island Drug store at Rosecrans and Canon that, in the 1960’s, was the gourmet market called Jurgensens. After the market closed, Italian restaurants came and vacated. Now Roseville brings to the area French-Mediterranean brasserie food and an eclectic wine list. The transformed space features booths, banquettes, a beer and wine bar and open kitchen–a lively room with a comfortable decibel level.

Executive chef Amy DiBiase, a graduate in culinary arts and food service management at Rhode Island’s Johnson & Wales University, gives a talented hand to the kitchen. She worked with Riffle and under then executive chef Jason Shaeffer at Laurel to eventually become top toque. When Laurel sold, she moved to Baleen at Paradise Point resort and now Roseville. Pastry chef Heather Fangon rounds out the original Laurel team with desserts that wow, now at Roseville.

And the food? It’s terrific. The Buzz disclaimer: I know the Riffles, DiBiase and Fangon, and have followed them since their days at Laurel many years ago.

Of the recent meals I have eaten with friends (and yes, I paid), the classic duck confit with shell beans (currently cranberry beans) comes with crisp skin and well-seasoned beans cooked with smoky bacon. Or, try the lighter flat iron steak, sliced and served on bed of cherry tomatoes with French feta cheese and light vinaigrette. Start with Carlsbad mussels steamed with flavorful fresh fennel and finished with a fresh herb salsa…and use a piece of Con Pane’s bread to sop up the juices. A deliciously zippy spring salad brings all fresh fava beans, corn kernels and blanched artichoke hearts mixed with an addictive grainy mustard dressing. Lamb, scallops, halibut, veal cheeks, daily specials and sides of frites, asparagus and other seasonal vegetables round out the menu. Ethereal desserts include a lemon chiffon parfait, a dark chocolate pot au crème and more. Service still has a few minor bumps, but the polish is nearly there-small things to be expected in a restaurant open not even a week. Prices range from $6 to $30. Roseville, (website soon) 1125 Rosecrans in the Village of Point Loma, 619-450-6800 for reservations. Dinner from 5:30pm, Closed Sunday

It's Got Bite

The Good, The Bad & The Ugly
About San Diego's Food Scene

San Diego Restaurant Week, Again

Sparkling Wine at The Shores and More Malarkey–UPDATE

Restaurant Week and La Playa Bistro

Buzz from the Bar

Bits and Bites: New, Old and More

Bits and Bites: Restaurant Week and Inaugural Luncheon

New Year’s Eve Roundup

Oh the Holidays, Part 2

Out of San Diego: Monterey

Roseville: San Diego’s Newest Addition

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