American

GABARDINE UPDATE: As of June 14, Brian Malarkey’s Point Loma restaurant: Chef Chad White and Malarkey have parted ways. Malarkey will be at in the kitchen–perhaps to stay closer to home when he moves here this summer? (See post below and his email note to Gabardine patrons.)

Buzz took a hiatus from writing to host a gaggle of overseas friends passing through San Diego. Now it’s time to get things revved up with my recent observations while dining in San Diego’s eclectic restaurants.

A few weeks ago at The Shores I dined with a Parisian couple that I had only met that day (friends of friends) and we ordered a “half bottle” of Domaine Carneros sparkling wine ($31, glass $15). (Note the online menu still shows NV J. Brut Cuvee 20, Sonoma, CA). What a surprise when the Carneros arrived in a carafe, poured into glasses at the table by our server. Yep, a carafe, not a special carafe, just a regular wine carafe. We were stunned–everyone too polite to say a word.

To be fair, you’ll find these words on the wine list: “*Our HALF BOTTLES are better than a half bottle!! It is 2-1/2 glasses per carafe! Perfect if you want more than a glass and less than a bottle.” But usually carafes are for red and white wines. One doesn’t expect bubbles in a carafe, especially in a place where the sommelier is studying to become a master sommelier.

My curiosity got the best of me to learn more about serving bubbles in a carafe. I checked with Parisian friends who pour (and drink) Champagne nearly daily–they were not familiar with such service–and online I found a video showing Michel Drappier decanting his vintage Champagne into his specially made chilled decanter. Charles Heidsieck also weighs in on the subject, noting that Riedel makes a uniquely designed decanter for vintage Champagne.

For The Shores “offering the best in neighborhood American cuisine” with unobstructed ocean views (including kayakers, surfers and marine life) carafe service for sparkling wine “half bottle” is an affectation that doesn’t do justice to the customer, the restaurant or the bubbles. How about selling real half bottles of good California NV sparkling wine (prices range from $20 to $35) rather than make the customer wonder how long a bottle had been open before it reached the carafe (and possibly lost its effervesce along the way). I’d bet a lot of locals and travelers from distant lands would rave about the classy and comfortable dining experience.

Two more Malarkey venues opened (Gabardine and Herringbone), adding swatches to his growing love affair with fabric named restaurants (Searsucker, Burlap and Gingham). One can only wonder when he gets to Nylon, Velcro, Polyester and Spandex. He’s opening a new place in Uganda in the summer…yes, Uganda, as noted here. When will Malarkey have time to move to Point Loma as he mentions in a Gabardine that also includes menu changes. Buzz will delve more into Gabardine and Herringbone in a separate post…there’s lots to tell.

Full disclosure: I know the executive chef, chef de cuisine and sommelier at The Shores.

Wade Hageman of the very successful Blue RibbonPizzeria in Encinitas (west of the I-5) will add another venue when he opens The Craftsman New American Tavern. After Mother’s Day takes over the spot that is Savory Casual Fare also in Encinitas (east of the I-5). Expect a late June/early July opening with a menu of “Hand Crafted Comfort” food emphasizing house made sausage, charcuterie, artisan cheese and Hageman’s farm to table approach with ingredients from local farmers, breweries and wineries. Savory Casual Fare, 267 El Camino Real Suite A & B, 760-634-5556, Blue Ribbon Pizzeria, Lumberyard Shopping Center, 897 S. Coast Highway 101, Suite F102, 760-634-7671.

When Savory closes after Mother’s Day, owner, Pascal Vignau moves to Chandler’s Restaurant in the soon-to-open Hilton Carlsbad Oceanfront Resort & Spa.

Go French for a week and dine at some of San Diego’s best: The Marine Room, Vagabond, Bleu Boheme, Winesellar & Brasserie to name a few. The Second Annual Tour de Cuisine (French Restaurant Week) runs from March 24 to April 1. Click here for more information and to see the three-course menus.

The Red Door Restaurant & Wine Bar named Miguel Valdez, who has been with the restaurant for a year and a half, their executive chef. On April 4 and June 20, Valdez will accompany guests on a tour of the Mission Hills Farmers Market, buy ingredients for the dinner, then return to the restaurant to enjoy an inspired meal. Four courses $45, with wine $70, and evening includes one of Chef’s recipes. For information: 619-295-6000.

A few weeks ago a friend and I stood in line on the street to order lunch at Carnitas’ Snack Shack on University Avenue in North Park just east of Texas Street. Rarely do I think about a place with food and flavors that leave me craving another visit. After mentioning the shack (a stand alone tiny building with heated outdoor seating in the back along the alley) to friends, they ate there three times in three days…and continue working their way through the tiny menu.

So, what’s good? Anything with pork. The BLT with ham, bacon, tomato, lettuce and a jazzed up “shack aioli” all piled on lightly grilled (thickly sliced) brioche bread ($8)–a sumptuous mouthful. If you see it on the menu, the eggplant, tomato and blue cheese appetizer features lightly breaded and deep fried Japanese eggplant rounds stacked with the other ingredients on two long toothpicks ($4). Ask for the skinny cut fries to be cooked crisp unless you like them soft and wimpy ($2.50). A local organic half roasted chicken missed in flavor and preparation–bland at best and a special one day. Other menu items include carnitas taco or torta ($7), steak sandwich ($9), Shack burger ($9) panzanella salad ($7) and glazed pork belly with frisee salad ($7). Generous portions too.

You’ll find chef/owner Hanis Cavin at the stove when you peek through the order window. Buzz would love to know why the zippy side/slaw that comes with many of the dishes is out-of-season corn? Why not local corn for summer and cabbage for winter? 2632 University Avenue, North Park, 619-294-7675. Open noon to midnight, closed Tuesday.

Buzz popped into the recently opened Snooze, an A.M.Eatery, to meet a friend for a late breakfast. The place hops at 10:30 on a Tuesday morning–so get your name on the waiting list since they seat when all of your party arrives. It’s a big fun room, with seating that includes a counter, booths and casual banquettes. In 2006, Snooze woke up in Denver and has locations in Colorado; San Diego is their first out of that state.

The menu includes eggs and pancakes, both with twists and liberties taken in name and flavors. Niman Ranch cage free eggs come in a variety of possibilities. A three egg omelet or scramble ($8.5) allows a choice of three fillings—everything from bacon, sausage, pulled pork, soyrizo, salmon, prosciutto to roasted garlic, spinach, caramelized onions, and arugula, and don’t forget various cheeses. A stack of crisp topped hash browns come with most of the egg concoctions.

My Tuscan Benedict ($9), one of many riffs on eggs Benedict, arrives with two lovely, runny-yolk poached eggs, perched on small slices of ciabatta bread and a “ragout of tomatoes, white beans, kale and squash” with cream cheese hollandaise. Unfortunately, the ragout needs to be more than just steamed vegetables with little if any herbs or seasoning–the flavors don’t meld. Snooze ought to call their sauces of either cream cheese or smoked cheddar cheese what they are—cheese sauces–NOT hollandaise since neither resembles the ethereal sauce of butter, egg yolks and lemon juice.

Check the menu here and you’ll find a BLT, burger and even fish tacos if eggs and pancakes aren’t your thing. Though Buzz didn’t try the pancakes, Keli Dailey did and Amy T. Granite tried a few other items. 3940 Fifth Avenue, (619) 500-3344, Open from 6:30am to 2:30pm weekdays and 7am to 2:30pm weekends.

Chef Amy DiBiase will join La Jolla Shores working with executive chef Bernard Guillas of The Marine Room, La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club and the Shores. Great views, wonderful property…Can hardly wait to enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner there after she settles in after August 22.

Other chef news: In Mission Hills, Tom and Trish Watlington who own The Red Door Restaurant & Wine Bar and The Wellington Steak and Martini Lounge have just promoted Daniel Manrique from sous chef to executive chef for the two properties. Best known for his role as the executive chef at Jayne’s Gastropub and sous chef at Parallel 33 (the prior incarnation of The Red Door), Daniel will oversee a menu that incorporates “earth to table” ingredients–many from the newly planted Red Door garden in Mt. Helix.

We’re hearing that Joseph Melluso, who brought life (and lots of drama) to the Cosmopolitan Hotel & Restaurant in Old Town, is out of that property and the kitchen he was running. He still has an interest in the place but has sold most of his shares to Catherine Miller who has been involved with the property for quite some time. Buzz left a message for Melluso for more information, but no word back, yet. We hear too that Melluso has some new projects in the fire.

One of the truly exquisite spots in San Diego is in Coronado at the Hotel Del Coronado. It’s a place you can walk the promenade between the sand and ocean and then walk up the pathway a few steps for a drink at the firepit lit Sunset Bar or enjoy a lovely dinner at 1500 Ocean. Earlier in the year both chef de cuisine, Brian Sinnott and wine director Ted Glennon moved on and now there’s a new culinary team at the restaurant.

Chef de cuisine Aaron Martinez worked for three years at Addison under William Bradley at The Grand Del Mar , and most recently headed the kitchen at Rancho Valencia. We’ll wait to see what Martinez does with the menu as the current one online still reflects the work of Sinnott as well as his then position as chef de cuisine.

Joe Weaver stepped into the wine director’s position after working with Glennon for nearly two years. Buzz knows Weaver from his days at the short-lived (but very good) Crescent Heights Kitchen and Lounge that closed in 2009. He is certified at the second level of the Court of Master Sommeliers as well as honors study at the Wine and Spirit Education Trust.

For the longest time Point Loma suffered from a lack of restaurant choices. But now things are popping as Buzz . The latest addition to the group is Lighthouse Bar and Grill that opened last week at the corner of Canon and Scott Streets with a full liquor license (beers on tap too) and a menu that includes 10-inch pizzas ($11.95 to $13) that might give Old Venice pause.

It’s a casual room with bar seating (comfortable seats, unlike those hard tiny ones at Old Venice), with tables on the perimeter of the rooms. Expect some hiccups as they settle in with their menu that includes everything from salads and crab cakes to pasta and pizzas. (A few menu items may look familiar but with a different twist, coming from their sister restaurant Pomodoro next door.) My take-out pizza arrived with no basil (but had a not too thick or chewy crust, hand formed and was good even minus the basil). Their crab cakes are good if you like the almost pâté style that they and many other places serve. Buzz prefers the chunky, light, with no or very little, cracker crumb filler.

I called to let the manager know about the missing basil so that he could alert the kitchen, and he thanked me for telling him. Yes, it’s good to nicely let a restaurant know about a problem as it helps them iron out the opening kinks. It’s not nice to slam a place in a Yelp comment without first letting them know the problem.

Observed at the bar single gals checking the scene with drinks as well as solo guys, locals, having dinner. Open for dinner and now, soon for lunch. 1101 Scott St., Point Loma, 619-224-2272.

A few blocks away on Rosecrans, between Canon and Talbot comes Westy’s Antique & Tavern at 1029 Rosecrans. Just posted the ABC notice, so it will be a bit of time before it opens. Local resident James West is listed as applicant for the beer and wine license.

And in the same block La Playa Café and Marketplace opens Thursday, June 30. Owner Cindi of La Playa Bistro, next door plans to serve gelato, smoothies, sandwiches and more.

On Kettner, in Little Italy just before Juniper, 98 Bottles expects to open this summer. Sounds like it will be a fun spot

Change comes quickly to 1500 Ocean with the news that chef de cuisine Brian Sinnott will leave effective April 1, and as he assured me in an email, it’s no April Fool’s joke. He wants to concentrate on his family.

Supper club dining comes to San Diego: Whisknladle Monthly Supper Club does it on the last Tuesday of each month as they begin their third year. Bringing strangers together in celebration of food, wine & great conversation, the three-course family-style fixed-price dinner for up to 12 to 14 guests served in Whisknladle’s private dining room includes paired wines. Limited to four per group to spur mingling in their private dining room, the next dinner is March 29 and the cost is $75 plus tax and tip. For reservations: 858- 551-7575.

Grant Grill Saturday Night Supper Club creates a jazz evening, with specialty cocktails and dinner. Drink and dine and then spend the night at the hotel with their Saturday night escape package which you can find on their website after scrolling down seven items in the list. (Note to hotel, make it a bit easier to locate on the website.)

On the move: Ted Glennon leaves 1500 Ocean and Eno at the Hotel Del Coronado for a new venture in Monterey, near Pebble Beach. Coastal Luxury Management will soon open Restaurant 1833 in the building that originally housed Stokes Restaurant & Bar. Glennon will direct the wine program.

Now that the news is finally out about El Bizcocho’s new executive chef, Nicolas Bour (he’s been in the post for a few months) the Rancho Bernardo Inn will likely re concept the long running restaurant in the next few months for redesign and perhaps a name change to fit with Bour’s farm to table expertise. In May, he’ll be in Kentucky for a major Derby fundraiser.

La Playa Bistro will open a cafe as Buzz noted back before they opened. Owner Cindi Hoang said they expect to open the cafe late April or May. Look for take-out sandwiches and other easy to-go items, including gelato, smoothies and more for the lunch crowd that doesn’t have time for a sit down meal. Expect to see the crowded (and unsafe) intersection get a bit worse for noon time driving.

Expect the action to pick up in the sleepy little village of Point Loma with the addition of Harbor Town (as the ABC posting says) in the old Roseville space on Rosecrans at Canon.

A block away on Scott at Canon in the former La Scala spot, Lighthouse Bar and Grill opens as soon as they get their approved liquor license as noted here. Expect the menu to have steaks, burgers, sandwiches, bar food and a well-priced, not fancy menu, all with an Italian flair. Both new venues will certainly give the locals other choices other than Old Venice (where the bar stools are arguably the most uncomfortable seats anywhere).

Other choices close by on North Harbor Drive include Jimmy’s Famous American Tavern where you can sit and sip inside or out with a perfect view of the dock and the yachts. In the same complex Pizza Nova pleases with the same view and good pizza and drinks.

In Fashion Valley Mall, look for Stacked to open summer 2011. They will occupy the Uno space and customers will be able to custom build (stack) everything from burgers to pizzas using tableside IPads with proprietary technology. The brains behind this unique concept also created BJ’s Restaurant and Brewhouse. Love Boat Sushi expands from North County to the spot once held by Smith & Hawken. And sadly the Bing Crosby space waits for litigation issues to resolve.

Coronado now has its own store featuring olive oils and more. Check out Coronado Taste of Oils where you will find everything from oils and vinegars to pastas and pesto. 954 Orange Avenue, Coronado, 619-522-0098.

Knight Salumi Company has closed as reported by Caron Golden of San Diego Foodstuff. No details as the phone is disconnected.

It's Got Bite

The Good, The Bad & The Ugly
About San Diego's Food Scene

Sparkling Wine at The Shores and More Malarkey–UPDATE

Encinitas Eats, French Restaurant Week and Red Door

Carnitas’ Snack Shack in North Park

Hillcrest Wakes Up to Snooze

Buzz from the Bar: CHEF UPDATE: DiBiase, Manrique and Melluso

New Culinary Team for 1500 Ocean

Lighthouse Bar and Grill and More in Point Loma

1500 Ocean and Supper Clubs

1500 Ocean, Restaurant 1833, El Bizcocho and La Playa Bistro

Point Loma, Coronado and Fashion Valley

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