Restaurants | FoodBuzzSD

As the New Year approaches, it’s time to remember a few of the stories that got Buzz’s attention in 2011:

1. The unexpected death of Naomi Wise, San Diego’s only truly anonymous food critic. She wrote for the San Diego Reader and was scrupulous to keep her identity hidden. I was an occasional member of her eating posse as she sometimes referred to her dining companions. Back in 2007 a post appeared here and Naomi wrote a perfect comment about what she did to be the critical and (sometimes unpopular) restaurant reviewer in the county. While San Diego does have writers and bloggers extolling the latest dish about a place, none are completely anonymous–ask any of the PR agencies that host media dinners. These days, everyone thinks they know food, just look at Twitter, Facebook, Yelp and other social media. Naomi’s honest, food knowledgeable voice will be missed.

2. National TV beckoned Nine-Ten‘s chef Jason Knibb who took on Bobby Flay in an Iron Chef America challenge. Knibb lost but had a good time with the “all business” Flay who barely bothered to speak to Knibb after the show. Riviera Magazine lost food writer and editor Troy Johnson to San Diego Magazine. Along the way he had time to create and star in Crave, a new show for the Food Network. Bernard Guillas, executive chef extraordinaire at The Marine Room appeared twice on the Today Showand also was inducted into the Maitre Cuisiniers de France, a very high honor.

3. Brian Malarkey who brought us Searsucker continues on a material tear, opening places all over the county, all named for fabrics that include Burlap and for 2012, Herringbone, Gingham, and Gabardine. Interesting concept and Buzz wonders if he didn’t get the idea from Washington DC chef/owner who, a few years ago, named his first restaurant Corduroy. His second, Herringbone opens in 2012. Malarkey picked up the shuttered La Playa Bistro and plans for it to become Gabardine. It will be worth watching how Malarkey unbuttons this small space located on a corner at the end of Point Loma’s business area. For anyone other than area residents the restaurant’s location is nearly a dead-end destination. And what about the food? Will Malarkey’s name be enough to fill the spot? Someone remarked the restaurant could have had a more nautical name such as Canvas, to reflect the neighborhood’s well-known tenant-–the San Diego Yacht Club is just two blocks away.

4. Chefs making news: Amy DiBiase now oversees The Shores in La Jolla, working with executive chef Bernard Guillas; Paul McCabe left his executive chef duties at Del Mar’s Kitchen 1540 for a partnership with the owners of Rancho Santa Fe’s Delicias; Jason Maitland left Flavor del Mar and will open Red Light District in the old Sushi Itto in the Gaslamp while CIA schooled and highly credentialed Brian Redzikowski took Maitland’s spot. Chad White jetted to Sea Rocket Bistro in North Park. At the Hotel Del Coronado’s 1500 Ocean Brian Sinnott chose family over running the kitchen, Aaron Martinez is now in charge and wine director Joe Weaver just moved north. Jason Shaeffer opened 1500 Ocean in 2006, then moved to Windsor, Colorado, bought a restaurant, named it Chimney Park Restaurant and Bar and was just named one of OpenTable Diner’s Choice Overall Winners for 2011 (as was Addison at the Grand Del Mar). Carl Schroeder made it to the semi-finals for a James Beard Foundation Award in the Best Chef Pacific region (as was William Bradley of Addison in 2010), neither made the finals…

5. San Diegans like to drink. According to a survey in , San Diego ranks 9th in drunkest cities…This may not be an honor the city needs.

Happy New Year…May 2012 bring San Diego’s chefs, restaurants and diners great food (and service, too). And perhaps this year will bring a James Beard Foundation award to a deserving chef and restaurant. It’s last minute, but you can put in your own nominees for the awards here–just do it before December 31, 2011 at midnight.

UPDATE: Here is the second installment from The Times with more hints for a restaurant. Note that the blogger is opening a restaurant. Buzz believes there are numerous positive tips for all involved in the restaurant arena–servers, management, and even customers.

So San Diego’s diners, how well do our restaurants hold up to the blogger’s thoughts? And perhaps San Diego’s restaurateurs might create their own list for customers! Consider also, that the first installment topped the most e-mailed list for days at the paper which would make one wonder if they care more about food on the east coast than we do in “Sand” City as a commenter noted below. Chime in here, you all can’t be out surfing!

Just read a terrific little piece in The New York Times about what restaurants should and shouldn’t do. It’s a list that ought to resonate with diners as well as management and servers in San Diego–a town that wants the food savvy world to take note of their up and coming chefs. But even good chefs can’t help a restaurant if the management doesn’t understand why most diners want to experience a meal with well-trained servers in a pleasant, congenial atmosphere be it a hole- in- the- wall or fine dining establishment.

As Buzz noted many times, good service isn’t about a server telling me his or her name (you aren’t going to be my new BFF). Nor is it proper for servers to clear a table, when, as happened to me while eating with three friends, all that was left on the table was my unfinished plate (even the glasses disappeared). After that who would want to finish a perfectly good pasta dish? And, yes, I mentioned it to the owner who knows better.

When it comes to service, San Diego’s pervasive “mañana”- “let’s go surfing” attitude could be one reason Frank Bruni (former restaurant critic of The Times) commented, during a recent appearance here, that San Diego isn’t known as a food town.

So what do you think? Let’s hear from you.

San Diego’s food scene brims with people, events, foods and restaurants that support the growing worldwide awareness of how we eat, where our food comes from, and how those decisions impact the environment, jobs and health. Savvy eaters in San Diego know about:

***Tender Greens in Liberty Station takes urban farming quite seriously and can now boast they get heirloom tomatoes and other seasonal vegetables from retired lawyer Paul Reeb who turned to gardening as a hobby. He grows produce exclusively for the restaurant and what’s really unique is that Reeb’s garden is about five blocks from the restaurant so cooks can pick every morning. How fresh is that?

***Slow Food Urban San Diego and their monthly “metro socials” that expose us to local farmers, local artisanal ingredients, classes and lots more. Get on board with the organization at two upcoming events. If you’ve wondered what former Union-Trib restaurant critic Maria Hunt is up to, you can join her at JSix on August 26 for a book signing. She’s authored The Bubbly Bar–cocktails specifically geared to the use of sparkling wines. Mark September 7 for their community potluck for the Slow Food national campaign to get better school meals nationally and here in San Diego.

***Support the environment and check out Manivela Delivery, the first bicycle driven food delivery service in San Diego. They specialize in restaurants that do not already deliver and serve the serve the center of San Diego nearest Balboa Park, but look forward to expanding out in the coming months. For more information: 619-512-FOOD.

***You’ve likely seen Peace Pies booth at many of the farmers markets. Now they’ve opened a small restaurant just up the street from OB People’s Organic Food Market on Voltaire. Peace Pies features delectable savory and sweet foods–I love their cinnamon rolls–everything they make is gluten free, raw, vegan and very very good. Open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch. 619-618-6960, 4230 Voltaire, San Diego.

***Local farmers sell at many of our 39 weekly farmers markets. If you can’t get to the market, get a box from one of the eight Community Supported Agriculture farms. The cost of a weekly box of local, fresh, seasonal produce could cost a lot less than a trip to the supermarket. Buzz has been a Garden of Eden Organics supporter for two years and loves the seasonal variety (and convenience) of the box of goodies.

***Get smart about our food supply and see the movie Food, Inc. And then catch Julie and Julia for the delightful story of Julia Child who opened the world of cooking on television in 1963.

In Del Mar, the place that morphed from Scalini’s to Pasquales has done it again…now it’s Flight. Flight’s new chef is Aaron Martinez who just left Addison where he was sous chef under William Bradley.

A well-known Gaslamp hotel restaurant is hunting for a new executive chef…it’s all about personalities…

Syrah Wine Lounge opens downtown–a wine bar with more than just Syrah–and cheese and meat platters (no kitchen). Located below the Cohn owned Dakota Grill & Spirits, we’d bet they have a interest in the place.

The building that housed The Guild, has been sold and Buzz is watching to see what will happen with the restaurant space.

And those wondering what happened to the Parallel 33 space in Hillcrest will soon have another restaurant by the same owners as Cafe Bleu at University and Fifth. Renovations are underway.

For sale: Twelve year-old La Vache in Hillcrest and the La Jolla institution, Sante on Hershel Avenue.

Up in Bankers Hill, another well-known eatery could be undergoing yet another makeover…possibly to Italian?

If you’d like to taste some Parker 93 point plus wines, then Enoteca Style in Little Italy is the place to be on Thursday, February 26. Cost is $20 to experience Palmeyer, Palazzo and others. RSVP online.

There’s a new city magazine that launches mid-May, OurCity: San Diego. It’s a magazine for our times that will cover things to do, places to go, the food scene (Buzz is the food editor) all with an eye to family, community and the people who are a part of this glorious place, San Diego. Sign up online for three free issues.

San Diego’s first Passover seder at Urban Solace, takes place on Wednesday April 8, the first night of the holiday. Reservations and information: 619-295-6464.

As Buzz mentioned on February 19, Winesellar & Brasserie will open a take away/sit down area downstairs from its Brasserie. Split @ The Winesellar & Brasserie opens Wednesday February 25 with a small menu to expand as it grows. Hours: 11am to 2pm Monday through Friday.

Eno at the Del, hosts a new series of Connoisseur Dinners that kick off with Willi Brundlmayer, the well-known Austrian winemaker. The March 4 dinner is limited to 24, cost is $85 plus tax and tip and for reservations call 619-522-8490.

If Austrian wines aren’t your thing, 1500 Ocean, the terrific restaurant at the Hotel Del (yes, Buzz loves the place for its top food and service) hosts the first dinner in a series to celebrate sustainable foods. On March 24, Cooks Confab, local chefs who value farm and sea to table regional ingredients, will hightlight sustainable seafood. Chefs involved include, Brian Sinnott, Christian Graves, Nathan Coulon, Jack Fisher, and Jason Knibb among others. The eight-course dinner is $95 plus tax and tip and for reservations call 619-522-8490.

Should you find yourself in New York on March 30, join Addison’s executive chef William Bradley and wine director Jesse Rodriguez for dinner at the James Beard House. For reservations, call 212-627-2308.

The 3rd Corner features a number of wine events and dinners including a March 9 wine dinner with wines from Fallbrook Winery. Others throughout March and April center on wines of Italy, Argentina, Malbecs and more. For information and reservations: 619-223-2700.

Family Winemakers of California comes to Wyland Center at the Del Mar Fairgrounds with 240 wineries participating on Sunday, March 15 from 3pm to 6pm. Cost is $40 or $50 at the door. Order tickets online.

At Wine Vault & Bistro you’ll find an ever changing and interesting lineup of wines and winemaker dinners. You need to be on the email list to know about the events.

The Kiwanis Club of Alpine Foundation hosts their 19th Annual Vintage Alpine on May 3 where you can enjoy wine, food, music and a silent auction. $40 before March 24, $50 at the door. For more information: 619-672-3861 or online.

A quick trip last week to Sacramento found Buzz eating with a local foodie at the newest addition to the city’s thriving restaurant scene. g.v.hurley’s restaurant & bar hops with a great vibe, comfortable room with high ceilings, dark wood, booths, large horseshoe shaped bar, and a snappy outdoor cantina style bar at the back of the main dining room. The kitchen, under the guiding hand of executive chef David Hill creates small plates of addictive kennebec potato truffle fries with shaved Parmesan (not the usual puffs of grated cheese) ($8), a trio of Kobe beef sliders with all the trimmings ($15), and a not so successful duo of lobster corndogs that we figure won’t stay on the menu. One terrific plate featured perfectly cooked scallops on a bed of fresh fava bean, corn and fennel succotash with a garnish of deep fried lemon slices. The combination worked perfectly. Mac & cheese poppers sounded so good, but we were out of stomach space! This six- week-old restaurant is absolutely worth trying. Lunch and Dinner, 2713 J Street, Sacramento, 916-704-2410.

At the Sacramento Airport, if you find your Southwest flight delayed as I did, wander through the food court to Vino Volo. It’s a comfortable wine bar serving wines by the glass or flight. The $9 glass of Wolfberger Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé hit the spot as I relaxed away from the hubbub. Definitely a spot to seek if you’re not into noisy sports bars. Other airport locations include Seattle, Baltimore, New York City and Washington, DC.

Bleu Bohème owner Philippe Beltran is at it again as he readies his second Beltran Restaurant Concepts (BRC) location, Papa Nanou, Cuisine du Voyage. Located just a storefront down from the empty Phil’s BBQ on Goldfinch Street in Mission Hills, it will serve Beltran’s brand of comfort food–diverse dishes in a casual setting. Expect a summer opening.

Cupcakes Squared (yep, they’re square not round) just opened next to Stumps Market on Voltaire in Point Loma. Former graphics artist Robin Ross Wisotsky and her husband decided to shift gears and have a second career in cupcakes and truly enjoy her love of cooking (she also catered for years). She uses French chocolate, Hawaiian vanilla and all natural ingredients to make a variety of flavors. 3772 Voltaire St., 619-226-3485. Closed Monday, Tuesday to Friday 11am to 6pm, Saturday ’til 5pm, Sunday ’til 4pm.

If taking a cooking class with well-known local chefs sounds good, here are two you might consider. The Marine Room’s Executive Chef Bernard Guillas offers spring cooking classes on May 7 and June June 11, $50 plus tax, tip and beverage. Up at The Grand Del Mar, the resort offers a different class each month ranging from Breakfast in Bed (for Mom) on May 10 to a Winners Circle Cocktail Party, just in time for race season, July 9, both are $75.

Enoteca Style in Little Italy bills itself as the best panini wine bar in San Diego. It’s the second concept from owners Maryjo Testa and Scott Thomas who created the popular downtown Salad Style for yummy salads that aren’t all lettuce. The new place features a small menu with eight $9 panini combos named for the streets of Little Italy such as Date (honey baked ham, munster cheese, arugula, spicy whole grain mustard) or Ash (salami, mortadella, provolone cheese, pickled peppers garlic aioli). Not a sandwich person? Try their salads (duck confit, soba noodle and ahi tuna or peppered steak), artisan cheese plates and innovative bruschetta (beyond tomato and basil) and of course, wine. Located on India Street between Ash and Beech, it’s an easy walk from Broadway so call your order ahead if you’re short on time. Open from 11am, closed Sunday, 619-546-7138.

Look for Point Loma’s newest addition, Roseville, to open by the end of the month. Executive chef Amy DiBiase’smenu will feature a French-Mediterranean twist using seasonal ingredients and seafood. DiBiase arrived in San Diego some years ago and worked at the original Laurel Restaurant & Bar as sous chef to Jason Shaeffer. When he left, she eventually became chef de cuisine and when the restaurant sold, moved on to Baleen at Paradise Point Resort. Her food is approachable and innovative so expect dishes from $8 to $27 and nightly specials, all complemented with a worldly and eclectic wine list.

No more Friday lunches at the popular Farm House Cafe. Too bad, as it was a perfect ending after a long week when I met San Diego food lover and blogger Alice and then by chance other friends, well-known Barbarella and her photographer hubby David Fokos. Buzz does understand the need to take a breath between service, especially in a small restaurant such as this so owner/chef Olivier Boiteau decided to keep it simple: Dinner: Tuesday through Sunday, 5pm to 10pm. Brunch: Saturday and Sunday, 9am to 2pm. Reservations suggested: 619-269-9662.

Executive chef, Brian O’Connor, left his post at Laurel Restaurant and Bar to go north for a position in San Francisco. Filling in and doing double duty from Laurel’s sister restaurant Chive is chef Joe Magnanelli.

Red Marlin now serves Sunday brunch from 10am to 2pm, buffet style, $39.95 per person, children (age 4 to 12) $19. Great panoramic views of Mission Bay, lots of entrees, omelet, waffle and dessert stations and, of course, mimosas.

In the past few weeks Buzz has been to a couple of press events. What this means is that new restaurants and their public relations firms invite press for a menu sampling and a glimpse of the place. Sometimes, as happened last night at Solare Ristorante & Lounge, it’s a fun, crowded bar with the kitchen sending out small plates, the chefs working the room and the public relations people meeting and greeting the invitees. Other times, as was the case with Red Marlin it is a seated dinner. And no, press doesn’t pay at these events. So, here’s the quick Buzz on both places.

Locals in Point Loma can now dine at Solare Ristorante & Lounge, a top-notch northern Italian restaurant with a great vibe in a comfortable setting, slightly off the beaten track in the NTC Historic area at the corner of Historic Decatur and Roosevelt. That means a nice alternative to Old Venice and the other red sauce and pizza standbys. The lively and inviting room, designed by owner and co-executive chef Stefano Ceresoli, includes terrace seating that overlooks the Promenade. Ceresoli and his wife Roberta also own Caffe Bella Italia in Pacific Beach.

The food reflects Stefano’s Milan roots co-executive chef Mark Pelliccia’s more than fifteen years cooking experience in Italy and Europe (he owns a house in Italy with a small vineyard). Think butter instead of olive oil, a Slow Food appreciation, homemade pastas, desserts and food that is approachable and well presented. Among the small plates we tasted: a smooth carrot timbale, a Colorado lamb chop and a feather light croquette of cod.

Open for lunch only until April 14 when they begin dinner service as well. In the meantime, from April 1 to 13, they will have two tasting menus available: A four course ($50) or six course dinner ($69) with wines that will be available from 5pm to 11pm, reservations are necessary at 619-270-9670. The lounge is open and tapas can be ordered there.

Want to watch the sunset with views of Mission Bay without the mess of beach sand? Then follow Quivira Road (to the right around the newly renovated Hyatt Regency Mission Bay) where it dead-ends into a parking lot and where you can enter Red Marlin that is part of the hotel. Large picture windows surround the room with seating that allows for views of the marina and at night the lights of Mission Bay. The top of the slightly tiered room has a large chef’s table (where the 16 of us were seated) and where the view is of the wine wall and the the sunset or the marina. There’s a terrace and an indoor-outdoor bar that looks towards the hotel pool area.

And the food? Chef de cuisine Danny Bannister comes to the kitchen with an education from the French Culinary Institute in New York and local experience at Laurel, Pamplemousse and 3rd Corner. Our meal included seared ahi and a slaw flavored with a ponzu vinaigrette and spicy aioli; smoked salt and chli dusted scallop with a fava bean edamame puree and sweet chili sauce, and a grilled filet with five-spiced sweet potato mash. Wines were paired for the courses, but unfortunately the menu forgot the vintages. Bannister uses good local ingredients including breads from Con Pane, but I wished for a more assertive hand in his food. Would I have chosen to have a puree and a mash in the same meal, likely not and in particular the fava bean one needed a seasoning jolt, even with the scallop’s nearly oversalted edge. The service was gracious and attentive.

Hotel cooking can be difficult for a chef with good ideas–most of the time the chef has to find a middle ground to satisfy his or her creativity yet cater to guests who may not be familiar with food beyond steak. Would I go back to Red Marlin? Absolutely, and I hope Chef Bannister finds his stride as he settles in. It’s a great place for locals. Reservations: 619-221-4868.

Buzz continues around Wolfgang Puck’s venture at the La Jolla Playhouse due to open about mid-June in a spot next to the Mandell Weiss Forum and across from the Sheila and Hughes Potiker Theatre.

According to Puck’s bio on the company website, this restaurant will be part of his Wolfgang Puck Catering company that provides exclusive, premium dining and catering to venues around the country including the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago, Nokia Theatre Dallas, St. Louis Art Museum and LA’s Pacific Design Center’s Red Seven restaurant.

It's Got Bite

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About San Diego's Food Scene

Tag Archives: Restaurants

San Diego’s Notable Food Stories in 2011

UPDATE:Handy Hints for Restaurants and Diners, Parts 1 & 2

Bits and Bites: Slow and In the Know

Buzz from the Bar and More

Bits and Bites: New or Special Events

Eating Well in Sacramento

Bits and Bites: Cupcakes and Classes

Bits and Bites: From Little Italy to Roseville

Press Dinners: Solare and Red Marlin

Puck Buzz Update

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