Sushi | FoodBuzzSD

Expect the action to pick up in the sleepy little village of Point Loma with the addition of Harbor Town (as the ABC posting says) in the old Roseville space on Rosecrans at Canon.

A block away on Scott at Canon in the former La Scala spot, Lighthouse Bar and Grill opens as soon as they get their approved liquor license as noted here. Expect the menu to have steaks, burgers, sandwiches, bar food and a well-priced, not fancy menu, all with an Italian flair. Both new venues will certainly give the locals other choices other than Old Venice (where the bar stools are arguably the most uncomfortable seats anywhere).

Other choices close by on North Harbor Drive include Jimmy’s Famous American Tavern where you can sit and sip inside or out with a perfect view of the dock and the yachts. In the same complex Pizza Nova pleases with the same view and good pizza and drinks.

In Fashion Valley Mall, look for Stacked to open summer 2011. They will occupy the Uno space and customers will be able to custom build (stack) everything from burgers to pizzas using tableside IPads with proprietary technology. The brains behind this unique concept also created BJ’s Restaurant and Brewhouse. Love Boat Sushi expands from North County to the spot once held by Smith & Hawken. And sadly the Bing Crosby space waits for litigation issues to resolve.

Coronado now has its own store featuring olive oils and more. Check out Coronado Taste of Oils where you will find everything from oils and vinegars to pastas and pesto. 954 Orange Avenue, Coronado, 619-522-0098.

Knight Salumi Company has closed as reported by Caron Golden of San Diego Foodstuff. No details as the phone is disconnected.

It may be the recession or just fate, but two barely year-old places closed: Mille Feuille Chocolates in Hillcrest and Mukashi in Bankers Hill. Covered in brown paper, the windows at Mille Feuille show only signs that say, “closed, owners relocating”. The stylish euro-designed room featured fine French pastries but suffered dearly, I think, in a lousy location at Fifth and University where parking is never easy. Mukashi had the best intentions with a good opening executive chef, only to fall, likely, for many reasons, including so-so service and the competition from Hane Sushi & Bar in the same block.

Up at El Bizcocho changes at the top with chef de cuisine Steven Rojas who left a few weeks ago for Los Angeles. His molecular-based gastronomic approach to food might not have been the best fit for San Diego, even with a glowing review from Naomi Wise and a terrific explanation by Peter Rowe. Wise was prophetic in her review when she said that she feared the chef wouldn’t stay, all the good ones leave San Diego. How true her words…we had expected to dine there this week.

Down on the bay near the convention center, Vela, at the new Hilton San Diego Bayfront, conveys serenity in a warm and contemporary room with views of the bay and the docks of the Port’s Tenth Avenue Terminal. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, you just might see a Dole freighter unloading its cargo or the lights of Coronado while you dine. The bar doesn’t have the view, but on a quiet Monday, Buzz was able to enjoy a taste pour ($5) of Barth sparkling wine from Germany along with an appetizer of butternut squash tortellini in sage butter (the pasta needed a minute or two more in the water) and a rich wild mushroom risotto ($18). Vela is a place where you can have a quiet meal and watch the world go by. Best yet is their Vela Society for locals that includes complimentary valet parking while dining, seasonal discounts for large parties and much more–and membership is free.

Had a chance to try the new Hane Sushi on Fifth Avenue at Olive Street. The room exudes simplicity…some may say they wish for something more on the blank wall behind the sushi chefs with only a floral arrangement at which to gaze. Buzz loves the lack of visual candy and the contemporary design. There is a separate small bar area, and the sleek sushi bar doesn’t allow the diner to see the fish as most places do. Sushi Ota devotees may find a favorite chef or two working here as Hane’s owners are part of the Ota clan. If you’re in the mood, special sushi and sashimi dishes and a good selection of cold sakes go beyond standard fare found at other places…but don’t expect bargain prices for creativity, quality, freshness and gracious service. 2760 Fifth Ave., Bankers Hill, (619) 260-1411.

Blind Lady Ale House in Normal Heights seems to be a hit with the neighborhood, especially on a recent Sunday night. The menu reflects simple pizzas, roughly 12 inches cut into six pieces. It’s very casual; you order from a choice of 20 beers on tap in one line and pizzas in another line where you get a number so the pizza can be brought to you. Plates, napkins and utensils are in the middle of the room and it’s up to you to set your table. Pizzas are European in style with thin crusts and a lighter hand with toppings–though one with butternut squash and shitake mushrooms needed more zip. House-made sausage, chorizo and Fra Mani salami are main ingredients for three different pizzas, and vegan alternatives are available including one for pesto. Pizza prices range from $7 for marinara to $14 for the chorizo with chiles and fontina. 3416 Adams Ave., (619) 255-2491. Dinner only from 5pm, closed Monday.

Looks like sushi is a big draw for Fifth Avenue. As noted here Azuki has opened at Juniper and Fifth. Up the street at Olive, Hane Sushi (the soon-to-be second location of the well-known Sushi Ota) will sandwich Avenue 5 Restaurant & Bar with Mukashi at the corner of Nutmeg. Ota signed a 10 year, $1 million plus lease. Can you believe it, two sushi joints in the same block? Buzz tried Mukashi when it opened and will soon try Azuki.

A nd over at the now defunct Gemelli’s at Fifth and Laurel, the liquor license is transferring to Restau, LLC. Stay tuned to see what happens in this prime corner space. Opposite corners are home to Laurel Restaurant & Bar and Bertrand at Mr. A’s (with one of the best rooftop views of the city),

Jack’s La Jolla redid their upscale dining room to an Italian venture called Viaggio. The menu features chef Tony DiSalvo’s homemade pastas and much more. Haven’t tried it, as it apparently just opened with little fanfare.

La Jolla based Burger Lounge comes to Coronado and will open their third location at the end of July in the old Island Wok space at 922 Orange Avenue. If you want an organic beef burger with hand-cut in house fries, this is your place. To top it off, they are now one of a handful of green certified restaurants in San Diego.

The Cohn Restaurant Group, that many say sets the bar in the city for middle-of-the-road food and service aimed at the mass market/convention customer, is expanding. They’ve partnered with Sunroad Harbor Island (a subsidiary of Sunroad Enterprises) who just got the go ahead from the Board of Port Commissioners for a $9 million overhaul of the former Reuben E. Lee floating restaurant, currently at the end of Harbor Island. Located conveniently next to the Cohn owned restaurant, Island Prime, the LEED certified restaurant will be designed by Graham Downes Architecture whose eclectic portfolio includes Nine-Ten, Chive, and the redo of its sister property Laurel. Along with Lesley and David Cohn, chef/partner Deborah Scott will operate the Lee. Expect construction to begin late 2009 and finish about 2011.

While we’re on the subject of the Cohn collection, as Buzz reported in May, David’s supposedly best-kept-secret-that-everyone-knew-about is finally out. Hard Work, Inc. (Cohn Restaurant Group) signed a 10-year lease for The Corvette Diner to relocate to the old Officers Club at the Barnett entrance end of Liberty Station. Renovation is underway on the space. And further up the coast, in the coming-on-oh-so-hip Oceanside, the Cohns will open a steak and seafood place called 333 Pacific in the Wyndham Oceanside Pier Resort on Pier View Way and Pacific Street. Expect to see the restaurant open by the end of the year.

The Cohns join others who find Oceanside the newest area ripe for restaurant expansion. Old Town’s popular Harney Sushi just opened their second very contemporary spot on the corner of Mission and Cleveland close to the pier. They have a sake bar, lots of sushi rolls and more. The place was very hip and hopping at their opening just last night.

Jai by Wolfgang Puck (pronounced Jay and it means “heart” in Thai and “good luck dish” in Chinese) opens for dinner in the next few weeks. Located at the La Jolla Playhouse complex, the restaurant is fashioned after Puck’s West Los Angeles eatery Red Seven at the Pacific Design Center. The menu features dishes from Red Seven’s former executive chef, Yoshinori Kojima who will oversee Jai.

Had a chance to visit Mukashi with friends…very fresh sushi and other dishes. It’s a comfortable room with a wall water feature, nice sushi bar, chopsticks and black paper napkins. But…what’s the deal with a huge tv screen on the back wall of the sushi bar? Rather than enjoy the sushi chef, the eye from any part of the room can’t help but notice the sports (no sound) on tv. Has the ubiquitous tv become the new necessary “art” for a restaurant? A distraction to say the least, since not every restaurant bar needs to be a sports bar.

In the corner spot on Third and University that was Italian, then morphed to a Brazilian sports bar, then became a seasonal venture, soon goes Hawaiian as Hula’s Beach Bar & Grill moves in. And no, it is not part of the TS Restaurant Group that owns Jake’s in Del Mar and Hula Grill in Hawaii.

Gemelli Italian Grill on Laurel at Fifth Avenue closed about a month ago. Sad, since the area is picking up steam with new and familiar places all around it: Avenue 5, Mukashi, Laurel, Modus, Extraordinary Desserts and others.

Two new additions to San Diego’s restaurant scene: Mukashi in Bankers HIll at the corner of Nutmeg and Fifth finally got their door open last week. Hope to try it soon. Call for dinner reservations: 619-298-1329.

Cardamom Cafe & Bakery in North Park is the newest addition for breakfast, lunch and bakery goods. They’re located at the interesection of 30th and Upas. They serve breakfast all day–a short menu of eggs, pancakes, cardamom sour cream coffee cake along with sandwiches and salads in the afternoon. Buzz looks forward to trying both places.

Once again, chef Gavin Kaysen garnered a top culinary award. This time it was the James Beard award for Rising Star Chef of the Year. Quite an honor as it is given to a chef, under 30 years old, who “displays an impressive talent and is likely to have a significant impact on the industry in the years to come.” In case you missed Kaysen in San Diego when he cooked at the Rancho Bernardo Inn’s El Bizcocho, now you’ll find him doing his magic at Cafe Boulud in New York.

Everyone is doing brunch these days and here are a couple more choices. In Point Loma, The Pearl, kicks off Sunday brunch on May 4 from 10am to 2pm with newly installed executive chef Trey Hartinger. This particular Sunday is called The Groove 24/7 Brunch Party because it’s not only about the $20 meal with bottomless mimosas. If brunch isn’t your thing, arrive after 2pm for $5 drinks and nibbles til 8pm. Hartinger also redid the dinner menu and when Buzz has a minute, will give it a taste–pork belly, sweet breads and other interesting dishes show off Hartinger’s stints at Azzura Point and Stingaree. 1416 Rosecrans, 619-226-6100.

North Park’s Cardamom Cafe and Bakery will open in the next few weeks for breakfast, lunch and bakery items. Owner Joanne Sherif’s fascination with this wonderful spice comes partly from her Ethiopian husband and the use of cardamom in various sauces as well as Scandinavian baked goods, Indian curries and more. Should be a terrific change of pace and it’s at the end of 30th at 2977 Upas, 619-546-5609.

For city views while you sip your mimosa and munch on an omelet Ivy Hotel features weekend Eden Rooftop breakfasts from 7am to 2pm with items from $5 to $17. Reservations: 619-814-2000.

Bankers Hill is getting to be a mini gourmet gulch. Very soon to open is Mukashi Restaurant and Seafood Market on Fifth Avenue at Nutmeg and in the same block there’s the popular Avenue 5). Just up the street at Fifth and Redwood is the wonderfully eclectic coffee house Cafe Bassam and of course Extraordinary Desserts

Spicy Pickle opened their first downtown location at Beech and Union serving paninis, sandwiches and that sort of thing. It’s a franchise, and their second location is due in Poway soon.

Coming soon to University Heights, Farm House Cafe joins the growing group of chef-owned eateries in the area. Just half a block from Adams Ave Grill, owner/chef Olivier Bioteau will feature moderately priced, rustic French food in the 40-seat restaurant. Bioteau honed his skills at Vignola (closed), Avenue 5 Restaurant & Bar and as a longtime private chef. Expect top-notch food from this French-born chef as he fulfilled his military service cooking in Paris at France’s equivalent to our White House. The restaurant will open in early February. 2121 Adams Avenue, University Heights, 619-269-9662.

Dessert wizard Jack Fisher whom many know from his stints at Nine-Ten, Region (closed), Montage, Addison and Jack’s La Jolla has started his own venture: www.jfconfections.com that will focus on chocolates and bonbons to the wholesale trade. He’ll have a retail site in the future.

Bankers Hill rocks! Look for Mukashi Sushi & Seafood Market to open late January. The name means “once upon a time” and the decor will incorporate the earth’s elements: water, stone and wood. Along with a full sushi bar and fine dining experience, the restaurant will serve breakfast seven days a week. An exhibition kitchen and fish market round out the space. The place is on the corner of Nutmeg and Fifth, in the same block as Avenue 5 Restaurant & Bar.

Rudy’s Taco Shop & Market opens its second location late January in La Costa. This location won’t have the market, just the great authentic taco shop food. Buzz loves Rudy’s original Solana Beach location where everything from breakfast burritos to carnitas, carne asada and chile rellenos is fresh and very good. 7662 N. El Camino Real, La Costa, 858-944-8226; 524 Stevens Avenue, Solana Beach, 858-755-0788.

If you love sushi you’ve likely experienced uni, the roe from the spiny creature called sea urchin. These days, uni dishes go way beyond laying it on a mound of rice to be eaten in one bite. Recipes that incorporate this prized ingredient into everything from sauces and soups to savory mousses and more, appear in French, Italian, Asian and American cookbooks.

From San Diego to Ft. Bragg, California is home to sea urchin divers who bring the creatures to processors who in turn ship it to sushi bars and restaurants worldwide, mostly to Japan and the United States. Recently, Philanthropy Roundtable organized a trip to San Diego to go on the boats with the divers and see fiirst-hand the sea urchin harvesting. The group saw the urchin processing at San Diego’s Catalina Offshore Products, followed by dinner and no, it did not take place at a sushi bar.

Pete Halmay is a diver with a mission: Get these sustainably grown urchins beyond the sushi bars and into restaurants such as Tony D’Amato’s well-known Baci Ristorante on Morena Boulevard. D’Amato hails from Sicily where sea urchin, known as ricci di mare, is as much a staple as pasta.

D’Amato served a sampler of urchin dishes that began with drinks and an incredibly simple bruschetta: Bread rounds brushed with a bit of garlic infused olive oil, topped with a “tongue” of roe. At the table, an amuse bouche of roe served in the spiny test (its shell) with prosecco and eaten with a teaspoon. Note that these two presentations allow the roe to stand alone, much like it does in sushi. In dishes like these, the roe’s delicate sea taste and creamy texture meld in the mouth, unhampered by too many other flavors.

Next came uni bisque with mussels, scallops and uni also served in the test. The sampler finished with a classic Italian dish of spaghetti mixed with a hint of olive oil, garlic and pinch of red pepper and barely warmed roe.

If you think sushi is the only way to experience this lovely delicacy, think again. Resources include http://www.calurchin.org/ and http://www.catalinaop.com/ as well as http://www.epicurious.com/. Photos by Marcie Rothman.

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About San Diego's Food Scene

Tag Archives: Sushi

Point Loma, Coronado and Fashion Valley

Bits and Bites: Sadly Gone

Bits and Bites: Short Takes at Vela, Hane Sushi and Blind Lady

Bits and Bites: Bankers Hill Update

Bits and Bites: Oceanside to Coronado Update

Bits and Bites: Jai and Hulas

Bits and Bites: Awards and Openings

Bits and Bites: Brunch, Sushi, Pickles and Cardamom

Coming Soon to University Heights and Bankers Hill

Uni: More Than Just Sushi

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