Mission Hills

The perfect espresso shot can be an elusive drink in San Diego. It seems that many places (and Buzz has tried many), don’t train their baristas properly. If it’s not the barista, it’s the espresso machine, the grind of the coffee and of all things, the weather that can affect getting that one ounce shot topped with crema (that creaminess you see on the top of the liquid). A shot isn’t a four-ounce bitter cup of coffee that many places serve. More isn’t better when it comes to a shot of espresso.

Barely a year old, Toma Sol sits at the corner of Washington and Albatross Streets. Owner Seekey Cacciatore has trained staff that know how to pull a shot. A perfect shot. The comfortable independently owned neighborhood café also carries a varied selection of foods that include breakfast wraps, lunch sandwiches, beers and wines and even gluten free brownies and cookies so good you’d never guess there’s no gluten. Cacciatore books interesting events from art openings to fundraisers and the café is the drop off place for Garden of Eden’s CSA box of fresh produce The organic and sustainable coffee comes from Cafe Motto. 301 W. Washington St., Mission Hills, 619-291-1159, Monday to Friday 6:30am to 8pm, Saturday and Sunday 7:30am to 8pm.

Caffé Calabria in North Park roasts coffee for many places around town and is a Buzz favorite for the quintessential espresso. They now serve Neapolitan style pizza Wednesday through Sunday from 5pm to 11pm. Among the others with Calabria’s beans: If you’re in Liberty Station, Con Pane Rustic Breads & Cafe makes the best cinnamon roll in the city along with great breads and sandwiches–that partner perfectly with the good coffee. Con Pane’s staff is trained by Caffé Calabria to understand the intricacies that make a shot. Gelato Vero Caffe at the corner of Washington and India Streets also uses Calabria’s coffee to make good shots. Their espresso bean gelato in a shot of espresso makes a fabulous afternoon pick-me-up.

A morning espresso at Little Italy’s Caffe Italia is almost like being in Italy. Some of the locals hang at the end of the bar dishing in Italian while sipping a perfect espresso and commenting on everyone who picks up their just-made drink nearby. The espresso bar uses LavAzza coffee–a company that began in 1895 in Turin, Italy and continues there today. They also carry Gelato Vero’s various gelato flavors, including Buzz’s all time fav espresso bean. 1704 India St., Little Italy, 619-234-6767.

A few places Buzz wishes for a better pull: Ask for a shot at Red’s in Point Loma and unless you specify short, you can end up with half a cup of coffee–that is not a shot. Buzz likes the vibe of Red’s, the roasted- in-house coffee at Red’s, even some of their morning pastries, but goodness gracious, please Cyndy Grace Savoy (owner), train your staff. It’s a waste of really good coffee not to have each and every person know how to make a proper shot. Is it because there’s an ever-changing morning staff who apparently are not trained on the espresso machine or have never heard the words short shot or proper shot or simply espresso? They also have beer and wine and good food long into the night. 1017 Rosecrans, Point Loma, 619-523-5540.

Across the street at Living Room Cafe ask for an espresso and you end up with nearly 5 ounces. They will remake it to whatever you want, but that shouldn’t be the case for a proper espresso. Come on Living Room, an espresso isn’t a vente!

At the Hotel Del Coronado’s signature restaurant, , the search for a new chef de cuisine is finally over with the arrival of Robert Hohmann who worked with Thomas Keller, Mario Batali and most recently in Napa at Michael Chiarello’s famed Bottega. Expect Hohmann’s new menu to debut October 1, using Southland Coastal ingredients to create contemporary Mediterranean dishes that highlight the flavors of Italy, France and Morocco.

Those of you who miss chef Chad White (ex of Gabardine and Sea Rocket Bistro), his toque landed in Golden HIll at Counterpoint. The menu for this wine bar says “food for people” and “wine for people” (who else besides people?), and features an eclectic collection of items from fried bologna and cheese on white bread and plum barbecued tofu to a cheeseburger and rabbit confit. We’ll see what changes chef White creates in the next few weeks and months.

In Mission Hills, Brooklyn Girl Eatery‘s opening chef, Tyler Thrasher moves on and sous chef Colin Murray takes over the kitchen duties.

Chef Amy DiBiase will join La Jolla Shores working with executive chef Bernard Guillas of The Marine Room, La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club and the Shores. Great views, wonderful property…Can hardly wait to enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner there after she settles in after August 22.

Other chef news: In Mission Hills, Tom and Trish Watlington who own The Red Door Restaurant & Wine Bar and The Wellington Steak and Martini Lounge have just promoted Daniel Manrique from sous chef to executive chef for the two properties. Best known for his role as the executive chef at Jayne’s Gastropub and sous chef at Parallel 33 (the prior incarnation of The Red Door), Daniel will oversee a menu that incorporates “earth to table” ingredients–many from the newly planted Red Door garden in Mt. Helix.

We’re hearing that Joseph Melluso, who brought life (and lots of drama) to the Cosmopolitan Hotel & Restaurant in Old Town, is out of that property and the kitchen he was running. He still has an interest in the place but has sold most of his shares to Catherine Miller who has been involved with the property for quite some time. Buzz left a message for Melluso for more information, but no word back, yet. We hear too that Melluso has some new projects in the fire.

Patrons of La Jolla’s Trattoria Acqua (that closed at the beginning of the year) can soon travel to Mission Hills where owners Michael and Victoria McGeath will open a new place named Brooklyn Girl Eatery. Their Trattoria Acqua blog says they signed a lease late last month for the space at the corner of Goldfinch and Ft. Stockton. They expect to start construction soon for a fall opening to serve breakfast, lunch and dinner with menus to feature locally sourced ingredients, craft beers, wine and more.

The release of Beaujolais Nouveau is a big deal in November and a couple of places will be celebrating its arrival Thursday, November 18. The Gamay grape stars in this wine and it is meant to be drunk within six months of bottling. Each year it’s released on the third Thursday of November – literally only weeks after it was still growing on the vine and because it is a light friendly wine, it’s a great reason to party!

At the Wine Vault & Bistro arrive anytime after 5:30 and enjoy a four-course Beaujolais Nouveau Family Style Menu for: $25 2010 Dupeuble Beaujolais Nouveau: $7 glass / $22 bottle. If you’re not on their mailing list, it’s worth it if you are interested in good wine dinners and tastings. For reservations: (619) 295-3939.

Euro Food Depot will celebrate on November 18 from 6pm to 10pm with wine, cheese, charcuterie and macarons. Four pours and food $30. For information: 858-452-9200.

Downtown, Bacchus Wine Market presents Beaujolais Nouveau and other first releases on Friday, November 19^th (4pm to 8:30pm) and Saturday. November 20^th(2pm to 8:30pm). Cost is $15 each day. For information: 619-236-0005.

LATE ADDITION: While we’re wining, The WineSellar & Brasserie, Paris Driggers is the new general manager and wine buyer. He’s been in the business for 15 years selling wines to top notch venues and brings a wealth of experience to the shop. Upstairs in the Brasserie chef Kevin Smith (who has worked in many of California’s top kitchens, including Patina in Los Angeles) is updating the menu. This gem of a store and restaurant is tucked away in an unlikely industrial park, just down the hill from Qualcomm and is worth a visit. 9550 Waples Street, (858) 450-9557.

It’s that time of the year again when restaurants want to see you patronize them–especially if you’ve been wanting to try a new place. San Diego Restaurant Week begins Sunday, September 19. You can choose from 180 venues that offer three-course menu for either $20, $30 or $40, depending on the restaurant. Check the website for all the information.

Saffron turns 25 in October. There will be five days of fun and food from October 18 to 22 that includes a Pad Thai throw down with local celebrity chefs and media judges…Stay tuned for more information, or check out their website.

Porto Vista Hotel in Little Italy, now has Brent Calley as the executive chef for their Glass Door restaurant with a new menu to boot. During restaurant week they will have a $19 three-course dinner…sounds like a good place to try and enjoy the view of the bay and the roof tops of Little Italy.

Popped into Brian Malarkey’s latest invention, Searsucker, on the corner of Fifth and Market. With it’s open ceiling, large windows, wood and old brick wall, the place has the feel of an airy, comfortable big country home. There are sofas where you can eat and drink. The bar is to the right of the entrance…and aside from backless bar stools and no purse hooks (lots of purses on the floor), it’s perfect for sipping and munching.

The menu is clever, albeit almost too clever and divided into Bites, Smalls, Greens, Ocean, Ranch, Farm, And…. Buzz popped in this week for a drink and a few Bites that included the simple preparation of quickly seared and lightly glazed shishito peppers (a staple usually reserved for Japanese restaurants) topped with a bit of citrus zest ($5) and the duck fat garlic fries with a tomato jam and tiny flecks of bacon and parsley ($6). In Smalls you’ll find spicy Baja shrimp and bacon grits ($12)–the Baja refers to the shrimp’s source, the spicy comes from a hearty Cajun spice blend and the rich and creamy grits make a perfect bed for the five medium-size, perfectly cooked shrimp. Some of the other menu items include farm bird lollipops and bleu fondue ($8) (Malarkey’s version of buffalo wings), or eggs and bacon ($) (four ounces of pork belly topped with an egg) and lots more such as cheek with goat cheese dumpling ($23) and local Baja scallops, foie gras and figs ($28).

It’s a fun place with good people watching, especially if you sit at the bar or along the high tops that edge the windows. Be prepared for a $15 valet parking fee. Open 5pm for drinks and Bites and 6pm for dinner, 611 Fifth Avenue at Market, 619-233-7327.

If you’ve not tried Saffron’s monthly Thai street food extravaganza, you must this Saturday, August 7. Served from 11 am to 2pm on the patio, you can try these typical foods. This month a Buzz favorite (that used to be on the regular menu) will be available: Lao sausage (home made spicy chicken sausage grilled and served with green papaya salad ($5.50). Try it along with an ear of grilled local corn lathered with grated coconut and coconut cream ($2) or two Thai coconut macaroons ($1.50). 3731 B India Street at Washington, 619-574-7734.

Little Italy will soon be home to a Chicago transplant–Francesca’s takes over in the former Zagarella and Cefalu spaces, at 1655 India Street, about 5,000 square feet on a ten year lease valued at just over $2 million.

Quality Social (site under construction) opened and Buzz expects it to be a hit. Where else in town can you get a very good gin and tonic (with housemade tonic) or a tasty Brandt beef hot dog that Chicago transplant and executive chef Jared Van Camp makes and smokes at the restaurant? These were two tasting items served at their opening party. Located in the former EXY space downtown at F & 6^th, the room includes two bars, lots of open space with high top seating and a very comfortable vibe. Buzz can’t wait to try the housemade charcuterie that includes pastrami, chicken liver pate and coppa, served with housemade pickles and mustard or goose fat fries for a change of pace. Local is the name of the game for ingredients: Crow’s Pass greens and Monterey Bay squid are but a few of the featured names. Oh, and forget about those frou frou drinks…not here. Open daily from 4pm to 2am.

Wine bars are a dime a dozen, each with their particular personality meant to attract a certain patron. Should you be the casual Wine Steals customer, their newest soon-to-open location is downtown on J Street between 7th and 8th in Petco Park. They’re also opening a separate gastro pub called Proper. And don’t forget the casual new Fifty-Seven Degrees (as noted here) on Hancock at Washington where you’ll find a large round bar, good wines and friendly and knowledgeable wine tenders. Closed Monday.

If, however, you want a contemporary, sophisticated experience, with top-notch service, a knowledgeable sommelier (Katie Brookshire who buys unusual and interesting wines), and a chef (Luke Johnson) who shops the farmers market for his weekly menu creations, then this is your spot. Buzz popped into Red Velvet for a bite and can’t wait to return. The tiny menu included fresh morels from Northern California with bite-size light gnocchi, fresh favas and Meyer lemon ($8) that paired well with a Saint- Veran and a delicate pork belly spiked with dots of tangelo puree and a subtle undertone of cocoa and jalapeno ($11) melded with a glass of Reisling. This gem seats just 30 people. From 5pm to 11pm, closed Monday.

Buzz is hearing that one of San Diego’s top chefs, Amy DiBiase, a member of Cooks Confab and executive chef at the popular Roseville in Point Loma, will be moving on in the near future. Stay tuned.

Donovan’s owners take over the Bondi space land will open later this summer with a new dining concept–possibly seafood or Italian so not to compete with their namesake steakhouse just a block away.

Lobster lovers, mark your calendar for May. That’s when King’s Fish House will feature live Maine lobsters in nine sizes and multiple dishes from bisque to rolls. Locations in Mission Valley, Chula Vista and Carlsbad.

**Wine lovers rejoice: The wine bar at Fifty-Seven Degrees (on Hancock at Washington in the old Pier 1 Imports building) opens March 5 with a stellar group behind the bar. At the helm is Sheila Tracy (the original Laurel and Farmhouse Café) who enlisted three top wine tenders: Billy Spain (original Laurel), Cindy Bartelli (Crush) and Christopher J. Hile (Ivy Hotel). The wine store features the expertise of Brian Farres (original Wine Bank).

**Downtown, Bacchus Wine Market is a hidden gem, with good tastings and a retail shop. In the East Village, Toast Enoteca joins the wine bar market with a contemporary and comfortable room, complete with those serve yourself, credit card type wine dispensers (and many more behind the bar). Best of all there is an Italian- inspired food menu that goes beyond a cheese plate. Little Italy is a hotspot for wine bars including Enoteca Style (on India between Ash and Beech) where the menu has panini’s, some salads from their sister restaurant Salad Style (on F near 8^th), wine and beer.

**Two blocks away on Union between Ash and Beech Extraordinary Desserts dispenses more than delectable desserts. New the first week in March are ports, Madeira and other libations that complement the sweet and savory menu. Worth a trip for a nightcap after the symphony or a night on the town. Or start the day there with coffee and pastry.

Changes: Venice, in UTC has closed and it’s all about location, location, location. Office buildings that garner the lunch crowd cannot be guaranteed the same at dinner. Crescent Heights (shuttered last year) was a terrific downtown restaurant on a Broadway corner with access mainly through the lobby of a large office building not close enough to catch the Gaslamp or convention crowd.

Ivy Hotel is now Andaz San Diego, and part of the Hyatt’s upscale boutique properties. We’re hearing executive chef Nathan Coulon will continue to oversee Quarter Kitchen, that features local ingredients that become terrific menu items. Coulon is a member of Cooks Confab, a group of talented chefs here in San Diego.

The word is out (and the sign is up) that the popular Point Loma Con Pane Rustic Breads & Café will soon have a new home in Liberty Station. It is in the same complex as Joao’s Tin Fish Eatery & Pub, Ace Hardware and backs up to the Point Loma Sports Grill & Pub. The greater access with lots of parking and a big patio should be a boon to bakery goers far and near. And yes, the place is a Buzz favorite.

As mentioned in a September 8, 2009 post, wine lovers who might have wondered where Bryan Ferris landed after his many years downtown at The Wine Bank, can now sip and smooze with him at the new Fifty-Seven Degrees on Washington in the building that was the Pier 1 outlet store. The wine store is open along with the wine storage facilities and the center of the room wine bar is just about finished. 1735 Hancock Street, San Diego, 619-234-5757

It's Got Bite

The Good, The Bad & The Ugly
About San Diego's Food Scene

Espresso: Toma Sol, Caffe Calabria, Caffe Italia and More

San Diego Chefs Update

Buzz from the Bar: CHEF UPDATE: DiBiase, Manrique and Melluso

Brooklyn Girl Eatery, Mission Hills

Party with Nouveau Beaujolais

San Diego Restaurant Week, Saffron, Glass Door

Bits and Bites: Searsucker, Saffron and Francesca’s

Bits and Bites: Wine and More

Bites: Con Pane and Fifty-Seven Degrees

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